Our hike on day one of our Penguin Trail starts at Moonlight Bay and takes us around Cape Hangklip. Rising dramatically from the sea on the eastern side of False Bay, Cape Hangklip has long been one of the most feared stretches of coastline in South Africa. The towering cliffs, hidden reefs, strong currents and sudden weather changes have claimed numerous vessels over the centuries. Long before the construction of the lighthouse at Cape Hangklip in 1959, sailors approaching the Cape often found themselves navigating one of the most dangerous maritime passages in the world.
Cape Hangklip lies opposite Cape Point at the entrance to False Bay. Early Portuguese mariners called this cape Cabo Falso (False Cape), because it could be mistaken for Cape Point. A navigational error, strong winds with heavy seas, or poor visibility could prove disastrous. Among the many vessels lost in these waters, three stand out for their historical significance: the Dutch East India Company ships De Grendel (1673) and Ternate (1680), and the German vessel Louise Scheller (1828).
The Dangerous Waters of Cape Hangklip
The coastline around Cape Hangklip is characterised by steep mountains plunging directly into the sea. Powerful south-easterly winds can drive vessels toward rocky shores with little warning. Before accurate charts and modern navigation equipment became available, sailors often struggled to determine their exact position after months at sea.
The region’s history is so closely associated with maritime disasters that local historians regard Cape Hangklip as one of the Western Cape’s most significant shipwreck zones. Records indicate that Dutch vessels were already being lost here within a few decades of the establishment of the Cape settlement in 1652.
The Wreck of the De Grendel (1673)
One of the earliest documented shipwrecks at Cape Hangklip was that of the Dutch East India Company vessel De Grendel (also recorded as Grundel or De Grundel). The ship was a small VOC hoeker or coastal vessel of approximately ninety tons. It had previously been employed in surveying portions of South Africa’s southern coastline during the late 1660s.
In 1673, while returning from Batavia (modern Jakarta), the De Grendel attempted to replenish its water supplies at Madagascar. However, the French had recently established a presence on the island and reportedly drove the Dutch vessel away with gunfire. During the encounter, the ship’s captain was wounded. Unable to obtain fresh water, the vessel set course for the Cape.
As the exhausted crew approached the Cape coast on 20th February 1673, disaster struck. The ship was wrecked near Cape Hangklip. The captain and two crewmen launched a small boat and attempted the hazardous crossing of False Bay to seek help from the settlement at Table Bay. One sailor died from exhaustion during the ordeal, but the others succeeded in reaching safety. Meanwhile, survivors on the eastern shore either remained near the wreck or began walking along the coastline. A rescue effort eventually succeeded in recovering the remaining crew. Remarkably, despite the severity of the incident, only a single life appears to have been lost.
The wreck of the De Grendel demonstrated both the dangers of the Cape coastline and the extraordinary resilience of seventeenth-century sailors. It remains one of the earliest recorded maritime disasters associated specifically with Cape Hangklip.
The Wreck of the Ternate (1680)
Only seven years after the loss of the De Grendel, another Dutch East India Company vessel met its fate at Cape Hangklip. The ship was the Ternate, named after the Indonesian island that formed part of the VOC’s lucrative spice empire.
Historical records indicate that the Ternate was wrecked at Cape Hangklip on 1st July 1680. Although surviving documentation is less detailed than that relating to the De Grendel, the vessel’s loss became part of the growing list of VOC shipwrecks along the Cape coast. The rugged shoreline, difficult weather conditions and navigational uncertainties continued to challenge even experienced mariners. Only 43 of 363 crew survived. The ship’s surgeon, Christopher Fryke, was one of the survivors, and described the shipwreck in his journal. He also described details of the harsh and cruel discipline on VOC vessels at the time, with punishments including keel hauling, running the gauntlet, and having a hand nailed to the mast with a knife!
The loss of the Ternate occurred during a period when the Dutch East India Company dominated maritime trade between Europe and Asia. Hundreds of VOC ships passed the Cape annually, carrying spices, textiles, precious metals and passengers. While many voyages were successful, shipwrecks remained a constant hazard. Every loss represented not only a human tragedy but also a significant financial blow to one of the world’s largest trading corporations.
The Wreck of the Louise Scheller (1828)
More than a century later, Cape Hangklip continued to claim vessels. Among the most notable nineteenth-century losses was the German sailing ship Louise Scheller. The vessel was engaged in international trade during a period when sailing ships still dominated global commerce.
The Louise Scheller was wrecked at Cape Hangklip in a north westerly gale on 6th June 1828, en route from New York to Singapore with a cargo of paraffin oil. The circumstances of the disaster reflect the same challenges that had plagued sailors for generations: unpredictable weather, rocky shores, and the difficulty of accurately determining position along the Cape coast.
The nineteenth century saw improvements in navigation, charting and ship design, yet Cape Hangklip remained dangerous. The loss of the Louise Scheller illustrated that even advances in maritime technology could not entirely overcome the natural hazards presented by this coastline.
A Legacy Preserved by the Sea
These shipwrecks form part of a much larger story. Thousands of vessels have been lost around the South African coastline, earning it a reputation as one of the world’s great shipwreck coasts. Yet Cape Hangklip occupies a special place within that history. Its combination of natural beauty and maritime danger has created a legacy that continues to fascinate historians, divers and visitors alike.
Walking around Cape Hangklip at the start of the Penguin Trail, it is easy to imagine the sight of storm-tossed ships struggling against wind and current, unaware of the proximity of the rocky shores of the Cape. For many sailors, those cliffs were the last land they ever saw, ensuring that Cape Hangklip’s reputation as a graveyard of ships would endure for generations.